2010 Mazda 2 Serpentine Belt Diagram
Before we begin, apologies in advance if I get some of the terminology wrong. I'm not American (Swedish) so everything is called different!
Recommended tools:
Medium size flat-head screwdriver.
8mm socket wrench
10mm socket wrench
17mm wrench (I used a polygon offset wrench) or any damn tool that will fit. Will explain below.
A buddy to help you from above.
To start with, you need to remove the front wheel on the passenger side. You will be lying down underneath the car a lot so use a trestle jack for safety. Don't rely on the hydraulics in the jack!
Once the wheel is off, you need to remove the plastic access panel between the wheelhouse and the engine bay. I also highly recommend you remove the splash shield, at least enough to be able to bend it back and expose the front area. This part is actually the most annoying until you've done it once and figured out where all the pins and bolts are.
The panel and shield is fitted to the body mainly using plastic push pin rivets but also a few 8mm bolts and possibly at least one 10mm bolt, depending on if you remove the splash shield or not and also how much of it.
Use the flat-head to pry open the center of the push pins and remove them. They are all the same size so don't worry about mixing them up in the tray.
The annoying part is that pretty much all the covers interlock with each other, meaning some of the pins or bolts you need to remove will be covered by another cover. You don't need to completely remove all of them though since the plastic is very bendy, just loosen them up enough so you can bend them open and get access to the pin you need.
I recommend starting by loosening the front side of the splash shield covering the wheel house, then the access panel. Put them back in reverse order.
See pictures 1-4 for reference.
Once you have removed the covers, the first thing you will see is the crankshaft pulley on the left. Look up and behind and the tensioner pulley is right above it. There is a 17mm cast hexagon sticking out; this is where you will need to hook up the wrench in order to pull the tensioner back and release the belt.
See picture 5-6.
The space between the end of the hexagon and the body is about 45mm, way too slim for both my breaker bar and ratchets, so I had to go for the poly wrench. Another thing to note is that it takes quite a lot of force to move this, so leverage is key. Make a note of how the belt moves between the different pulleys, see picture 8 for a crude diagram but make sure! Pull/push the tensioner CW (left) and once you peel off the belt (can also cut the belt to make this easier) slowly let the tensioner fall back down.
Get the new belt and feed it from above the engine and down towards the crankshaft. Have your buddy hold the top so it doesn't fall all the way down. Get the belt into position from the bottom and up except over the generator. Pull back on the tensioner again and have your buddy strap the belt over the generator pulley. Check to make sure that the belt is correctly placed over each pulley and their grooves before lowering the tensioner.
Job well done! All you need to do now is double check the tension warning system (see picture 7 for details) and then reinstall the access panel, splash shield and any other covers you loosened. Put the wheel back on, remove the jacks and
take it for a spin!
I hope this helped and good luck!
Source: https://www.mazda3revolution.com/threads/2014-2-2d-serpentine-belt-change.233721/
Posted by: emilemillewtere0275921.blogspot.com